麦昆（2018）

我知道那是… – 但是他们的确!
I know that that’s… – But they do!
你一直在媒体上看到这些! 他们说 “哦 伊莎贝拉·布罗
You see it all the time in the press! They say, “Oh, Isabella Blow,
“负责菲利普·崔西和亚历山大·麦昆”
“responsible for Philip Treacy and Alexander McQueen.”
不 他们说… – 他们就是这么说的!
No, they say… – They do just say that!
但对你我来说从未如此
But it’s never been about that for me and you.
是我的问题吗?
Whether I was part of it?
你觉得那种联♥系♥让你反感吗?
Does that annoy you that they put a strap on it?
“由伊莎贝拉·布罗发掘的” 那让你生气吗?
“As discovered by Isabella Blow.” Does it piss you off?
不 一点也不 因为伊西以这种方式帮助了我很多
No, not at all, because Issie has helped me a lot in that way,
但不是像她那样…
but not in the way that she’s like…
她这样做是因为她喜欢我的衣服
She does it because she loves my clothes,
不是因为她爱我
not because she loves me.
没错 这就是问题
Exactly. That’s the point.
因为我一点也无法忍♥受她!
Because I can’t stand her guts!
开玩笑
I’m joking.
我记得坐在那儿 我想着
I do remember sitting there, thinking to myself,
“拜托 放过伊西 因为除了帮助你 她什么都没做
“Please, lay off Issie because she’s done nothing but help you,
“但你似乎让她非常难过”
“but you seem to be giving her a really difficult time.”
伊西 国王制♥造♥者
Issie kingmaker.
这是她所支持的男人 然后他对此感到愤慨
This is the man she championed and then he resented that
并希望成为他自己的男人
and wanted to be his own man
所以在纪梵希没有伊莎贝拉·布罗的位置
so there was no position for Isabella Blow at Givenchy.
惩罚
Punishment.
我记得麦昆转过身对我说
And I remember McQueen turned to me and said,
“我现在是大亨 德特玛”
“I’m the tycoon now, Detmar.”
那并不亲切
And it wasn’t meant affectionately.
我们有一个原则 不表现受伤 不表现脆弱
We had a policy. Don’t show hurt, don’t show weakness.
保持斗志 保持自豪 继续战斗
Keep your head up, keep proud, keep fighting.
有些东西会出现 它是必须的
Something will turn up. It’s got to.
他的运气来了 而她并没有
His star ascended and hers didn’t as much
而且 你知道 他逐渐抛弃了她
and, you know, he slightly abandoned her.
然后伊西突然在《星期日泰♥晤♥士♥报♥》找到了这份工作
Then Issie suddenly got this job at The Sunday Times
麦昆说 “你已经复活了 伊西”
and McQueen said, “You’ve been resurrected, Issie.”
我想 “不 谢谢你 伙计”
And I thought, “No thanks to you, mate.”
我在媒体和公众视野中看到自己像瞪羚一样
I saw myself within the press and in the public eye as the gazelle.
瞪羚总是被吃掉了
And the gazelle always got eaten.
那就是我如何看待人生 我们都可以很容易地被丢弃
And that’s how I see human life. We can all be discarded quite easily.
设计师的时代在媒体上的脆弱
The fragility of a designer’s time in the press.
你来了 你走了
You’re there, you’re gone.
外面丛林密布
It’s a jungle out there.
我去了他伦敦的工作室
I went to his London studio
他在谈论高级定制秀
and he was talking about a haute couture show.
“我试着取悦他们然后我搞砸了
“I tried to please them and then I fucked it up.
“我要做自己的事
“I’m gonna do my own thing.
“这将非常麦昆 下一场
“It’s gonna be very McQueen, the next one.
“去你的! 去你们的! 你们所有人 我要给你们看看”
“Fuck you! Fuck you, all of you. I’m gonna show you.”
我们从纪梵希的…神圣大厅离开
We went from this sort of… The hallowed halls of Givenchy
来到那种粗糙脏乱的博罗市场
into the sort of rough, gritty Borough Market,
人们只是扫走所有腐烂的水果和蔬菜
people just sweeping all the rotting fruit and veg up.
很高兴向他们展示伦敦粗糙的地方
It’s nice to show them the rough part of London,
让他们感到害怕 夹着尾巴做人
make them a bit scared, look over their shoulder once in a while.
这与高级定制无关
It’s nothing to do with couture.
现在你有了自己的工作室
Now you’ve got your own studio.
我们开启了另一个篇章 在另一个世界 在另一个麦昆
We’re in another chapter, in another world, in another McQueen.
所有摄制组围着前门
All camera crews go round the front gate.
伦敦的秀总是…
The London shows were always…
观众 期望 都很伟大
The audience, the expectation, was so great.
巴黎的秀更为正式和保守
The shows in Paris were far more formal and reserved.
人们在伦敦会大喊大叫
People would scream their heads off in London.
这很疯狂 人们真的很想看到走秀
It was crazy, people literally fighting to see the catwalk.
李在模特间穿梭
Lee just running from model to model
并对每个人呼喊 大喊大叫
and screaming and shouting at everyone.
西蒙 我们要开始了!
Simon, we want to start the show!
不停地动 不停地换衣服 不停地有压力
And just always moving, always dressing, always stressing.
压力和更衣 实际上是一起的
Stressing and dressing, actually, together.
我们都站好了 准备好了吗?
Are we all standing by, ready to go?
好
OK.
拉塞尔在哪里? 他出去了吗? 他准备好了吗?
Where’s Russell? ls he out there? ls he getting ready?
是的
Yeah.
其中一个模特迟到了
One of the models was late.
他说 “操她的” 然后他开始了秀
He said, “Fuck her” and he started the show.
他只是说 “好了 朱迪丝 去吧”
He’d just go, “Right, Jodes, just go for it.”
他过去常给我打气
He used to psyche me up.
我就这样走上T台…
I used to literally get out onto the catwalk and go…
那真的是第一次
It was really the first time
系列渗透了所有东西
the collection kind of seeped out into everything,
从那个地方的氛围到对人们的影响
from the energy that was in that space to the effect it had on people.
那种焦虑 愤怒和恐惧
A sort of angst, an anger and fear,
在那场走秀上交织着
that was woven through that show.
我们震惊了
We were mind-blown
因为她们看起来不像模特
because they didn’t look like models.
她们看起来像长毛动物
They look like animals with this big hair
这种动物装扮
and this animal make-up.
那就像…
It was like…
非常强烈
It was intense.
一些不被允许进入的学生
Some students that weren’t allowed in
冲破路障 踢倒了火盆
stormed the barricades and kicked over all these fire pots.
然后开始着火了
And then the fire started.
因为有一堆废旧的汽车
Cos there were a pile of crashed cars
而且我认为我们没有把汽油清空
and I don’t think we’d emptied the cars of petrol.
这辆车真的着火了
The car’s actually on fire.
T台上有一辆该死的汽车着火了
There’s a fricking car on fire on the catwalk.
每个人都以为这是走秀的一部分
And everyone thought it was part of the show.
“你怎么敢…带着灭火器出去
“Don’t you…dare go out there with fire extinguishers.
“继续上 继续上”
“Just keep sending them out. Keep sending them out.”
如果没有得到制止 整个帐篷
Had that not been rectified, that whole tent
所有顶级时尚编辑和模特都只能是往事了
and all the top fashion editors and models would have been history.
这就是经典的 精彩的 疯狂的 天才的李
That’s just back to typical, wonderful, mad, brilliant Lee.
你搬出伦敦并在巴黎定居了吗?
Did you move out of London and settle in Paris?
我住在这两个地方 我在这里待六个月 在伦敦待六个月 如此往复
I stay in both. I’m here for six months and in London six months. All over.
我的狗在伦敦 我想念他 我想念我的狗
My dog is in London and I’m missing him. I’m missing my dog.
穿梭在两个城市 做纪梵希和麦昆
Travelling between the two cities to do Givenchy and McQueen,
当然路费报销
of course it would take its toll.
但他做到了
But he did it.
他能让秀不同凡响
And he managed to make the shows amazing.
那时压力太大了
By that time there was so much more pressure
因为他也在做自己的产品线 还不得不做
because he was also doing his own line and then having to do
成品和定制
ready-to-wear and couture.
你可以看到李的压力才刚开始
You could see the beginning of the pressure that Lee was under.
LVMH最喜欢的公♥司♥是迪奥
The favourite company of LVMH was Dior.
李觉得他们真的在把他和加利亚诺比较
Lee felt they were really comparing him with Galliano.
然后他慢慢发现
And then he sort of found out
约翰有比他多四倍的预算
that John had four times more budget than him
来创造他的高级定制系列
to create his haute couture collection.
我们喜欢的房♥子是麦昆的房♥子
The house we loved was the McQueen house.
纪梵希就像一个继兄弟
Givenchy was like a stepbrother.
我们知道我们会有结束的时候
We knew that our time there had an expiry date.
当我们到达巴黎时 李的衣服往往很僵硬
When we arrived at Paris Lee’s clothes tended to be very rigid
而我想在巴黎
and I think in Paris
他必须发现事物柔软的一面
he got to discover the soft side of things.
我们采用了并带到伦敦
We took that and we brought it to London.
对于“13号♥”我记得他很开心
For No.13, I remember him very happy.
李头脑很清楚知道他想做什么
Lee had it very clear in his head what he wanted to do.
我们开完会想
We all left the meeting thinking,
“哦 天啊 他对这一季非常清楚”
“Oh, my God, he has it very clear this season.”
“他知道用什么颜色 他知道形状…”
“He knows what colours, he knows the shape…”
他本人感到平静
He himself was feeling at peace.
我与李合作的第一场秀 他喜欢机器人的主意
The first show I ever worked on with Lee, he liked the idea of robots.
李不停地谈论它
Lee kept going on about it,
“哦 我要这个机器人 这个型号♥”
“Oh, I’m gonna have this robot, this model.”