and we’ve done all we can there to keep them clean,
我们把小鸡移至养鸡场
we move them to the farm.
(德拉瓦州格林伍德,宝凋养鸡场)
小鸡来时是一天大
They come here a day old.
孵化当天 我们把小鸡送来,放进鸡舍
Day they hatch, we get them here, put them in the chicken house.
牠们待在这儿大约45天
They stay here about 45 days.
这裡的小鸡大约14天大、两週大
These birds here are about 14 days, two weeks old.
我们会监测特定的沙门氏菌株
So we monitor for specific types of salmonella,
我们使用称为鞋套拭子的採样技术
and we use this sampling technique called boot swabs, or bootie swabs,
就是把沾满脱脂牛奶的鞋套 套在靴子上
where you take a sock that’s doused in skim milk, put it over your boot,
在鸡舍裡走动 设法尽可能採样到最多的鸡屎
and walk through the chicken house trying to sample as many chicken’s droppings
把鸡屎沾到鞋套上
as you can possibly pick up with those boots.
鞋套样本可以採集到超过一百隻鸡
And we figure over 100 chickens contribute to the bootie sample.
我们把样本送交实验室 检验有无沙门氏菌
We send that to the lab and look for salmonella.
(德拉瓦州米尔福德,宝凋加工厂)
这是去骨去皮的鸡胸肉
This is boneless, skinless breast.
去骨之后来到产线上
It comes down the line after it’s been taken off the, uh, bone.
进入这个设备清洗
It goes into this unit and is washed.
当中有一些过氧乙酸
There’s some peracetic acid, helps us keep it clean
从刚才的程序一路到包装 协助保持清洁
from the process that we just did all the way to the package.
我们相信如果鸡隻进来时 带有一点沙门氏菌
We believe that if a bird came in with a little bit of salmonella,
这样也已经洗淨和处理妥当
it’d be washed off and taken care of.
美国食安系统有个大漏洞
One of the big broken pieces of the American food safety system
就是我们不对饲养场进行任何监测
is that we don’t monitor anything on the farm.
那些地方形同管理者的禁区
Those are off-limits to regulators.
问题在于有许多沙门氏菌 都是在饲养场层级被发现
The problem lies in that a lot of salmonella is found at the farm level,
在孵化场层级被发现
at the hatchery level.
美国农业部管辖权的启动
And, you know, USDA’s jurisdiction doesn’t kick in
要等到这些鸡肉进入屠宰场才开始
until those chickens actually enter the slaughter plant.
A镜次,标记
A-mark.
开始先介绍一下你的工作吧
Let’s just start off with, tell me what you do for work.
我是美国农业部的消费者安检员
I am a USDA consumer safety inspector,
而我负责检查鸡肉
and I inspect chickens.
(这位美国农业部检查员 要求我们隐匿身分)
(避免遭到报复)
我们每天检查超过30万隻鸡
We run over 300,000 chickens a day.
每分钟要看175隻鸡 等于一熘烟就经过眼前
We’re looking at 175 birds a minute, and they’re going by so fast.
每条生产线的尾端只有一名检查员
There’s only one inspector at the very end of the line,
有时候确实会漏看许多东西
and they do miss a lot sometimes.
我做过的一些工厂
Some of the plants I’ve worked at,
我觉得这样出去的鸡不安全
I feel like the chicken’s not safe to go out.
我觉得我们知道的一些故事
I feel like consumers would really be shocked
消费者听到会吓一跳
at some of the stories that we could tell them.
我见过工厂人员
I’ve seen…
…plant person throwing chickens in the chiller
把体内还有排泄物的鸡丢进冰柜
and would have fecal matter in them.
我见过检查员在生产线上睡着了 而产品就这样过关
I’ve seen inspectors sleep on the line and product just going on by.
会看到有员工去上厕所
And you’ll see employees, they’ve been to the bathroom.
但是上完没有洗手
They’re not washing their hands.
我见过
I’ve seen…
有人的刀子掉到地上 但是捡起来没有洗乾淨
…people drop their knives, not attempt to pick them up and wash it,
就这样继续用
just go right back to using it.
他们有自己要做到的配额
They got a quota they gotta meet.
我觉得他们在那儿是为了获利
And, you know, I feel like they’re there to make a profit
只顾着让鸡隻过关
and get the chickens through.
不在乎其中的品质
They don’t care what shape they’re in.
美国农业部的检查机制 可回溯至1900年代早期
The USDA inspection regime is really… goes back to the early 1900s
厄普顿辛克莱写的《魔鬼的丛林》
and, you know, Upton Sinclair’s book The Jungle.
这是一本很沉重的小说
It was not a pleasant novel.
诉说处理肉类的肮髒和轻忽
It told of conditions of filth and carelessness in the handling of meat,
看过的人都很担心和愤怒
and those who read it became concerned and aroused.
这是严重不法
It’s an outrage.
肉类和禽肉的检验法规应运而生
Meat and poultry inspection laws are designed to deal with the problem
处理老罗斯福总统在1906年 提到芝加哥肉类包装工厂的问题
that Teddy Roosevelt addressed in 1906 in meatpacking plants in Chicago,
也就是有染病的动物进入设施
which is diseased animals coming into facilities,
有坏掉的肉流入粮食系统
spoiled meat being put into the food system.
(美国政♥府♥检查)
老实说,他们建立检查体制当时
Frankly, when they built that inspection regime,
我们甚至还不瞭解病毒和细菌
we didn’t even understand viruses and bacteria.
每一隻禽类都必须个别检查
Every bird must be individually inspected.
必须证明完整,否则就要被淘汰
It must prove to be wholesome, or else it is condemned.
他们被期待做到的事,和细菌无关
What they’re expected to do has nothing to do with bacteria.
你看不到细菌
You can’t see bacteria.
肉眼看不到
They’re not visible to the naked eye.
(注意,二氧化碳使用中)
没有上千,也有成百的禽类检查员
You have hundreds, if not thousands,
坐在屠宰场的生产线
of poultry inspectors sitting on slaughter lines,
看着禽隻过去
watching birds go by,
为了符合法律规定
to meet the statutory mandate
所以要有美国政♥府♥的检查员 看着通过设施的每一隻鸡
to have a US government inspector look at every chicken that goes through a facility
但这对于食安毫无有意义的帮助
with no meaningful benefit for food safety.
那是在浪费好几亿美元
It’s a waste of hundreds of millions of dollars.
我不同意那样的评估,理由如下
I disagree with that assessment for a number of reasons.
检查员会去观看产品
They do look at the product.
那是依照现行法规的要求
That’s what the law requires under current statutes.
他们会去观看公♥司♥的纪录
They look at the records that companies keep
确保公♥司♥有做到应当做到的项目
to ensure that they’re doing what they’re supposed to do,
检查员也会採样检验产品
and they sample and test product.
我们每个月要经手数百万禽隻
We run millions of birds a month.
每个月在场内採样五隻全禽
We test five salmonella samples a month of a whole bird.
以及採样五个部位肉样本 检验有无沙门氏菌
And we do five samples of parts at our plant.
美国农业部就只有做这些
That’s all the USDA does.
(有机放养)
(鸡胸肉片含肋骨肉)
只因为上头标示了“美国农业部检验”
And just because it says that “USDA inspected” on there,
但完全没有意义 因为一定要有这个标章
it don’t mean nothing because it’s gotta be on their label.
一些工厂生产出来的东西 我完全不会想吃
I wouldn’t want to eat nothing coming from some of the plants myself.
把生禽肉带进厨房♥
When you bring raw poultry into your kitchen,
本身就是很大的风险
you’re taking a significant risk.
真正的问题是 就算是我这样小心的人
The real problem is that even somebody as careful as me,
我是研究这些病原体的微生物学家
I’m a microbiologist that studies these pathogens,
当我把这些包装肉带进家裡
when I bring these packages into my house,
真的很难不去污染到其他东西
it’s really hard not to contaminate things.
我打开包装
I’m gonna open that package,
立刻会把塑胶膜丢进垃圾桶
and I’m immediately gonna put that plastic into the trash.
我会用脚按开垃圾桶
I’m gonna use my foot.
然后我会把鸡肉
Then I’m gonna take the chicken
立刻放进热油开始煎
and immediately put it into, you know, hot oil and start frying it.
(高低火)
然后我会丢掉剩下的包装
Then I’m gonna throw away the rest of the package,
但这次我碰到垃圾桶的盖子,对吧?
but this time I touched the top of the trash can, right?
(污染06)
我去洗手,打开水龙头 我污染到了水龙头
And then I go wash my hand, and I turn on the faucet.I’ve just contaminated the faucet.
我按下洗手乳瓶,我污染到了瓶子
I pump the soap. I’ve just contaminated the soap.
我会确实洗手
I’m gonna wash my hands really well.
然后用水冲乾淨,关掉水龙头
Then I’m gonna rinse my hands, and shut off the faucet.
这下子我又重新污染了我的手 而我接着要去做沙拉
I’ve just recontaminated my hand, and I’m gonna go make a salad.
(污染10、污染11)
就算我这麽小心 这些细菌还是会散播
As careful as I am, those bacteria get around.
沙门氏菌乾了之后 可以在物体表面上停留好几个月
Once that salmonella is dry, it can stay on surfaces for months.
吃下肚子还是有可能让人生病
It could still make someone sick when ingested.
你应该要知道当你把生禽肉带进厨房♥
You should know that when you bring raw poultry into your kitchen,
等于是把生物灾害带进了整个家
you are introducing into your household a biohazard,
你也应该用同样的高规格去处理
and you should handle it accordingly.
当你吃下沙门氏菌
When you consume salmonella,
一些菌株对多种抗生素具有抗药性
some of those strains also are resistant to multiple antibiotics,
所以治疗失败的可能性将会更高
and so the likelihood that a treatment is going to fail is much higher.
这些细菌将会在你的血液中继续繁殖
Those bacteria are going to continue to grow in your blood,
可惜这些感染会造成有人死亡
and sadly, people die of these infections.
(製片人带了五件包装鸡肉 送交实验室检验)
(华盛顿州西雅图,IEH实验室)
我们检验食品的方式
So the way we test foods,
有五个样本送来这儿做检验
I think the samples dropped off here for us to test were five samples
都是从当地超♥市♥买♥♥来的鸡肉
of… of chicken that were purchased from local grocery stores.
大约一小时就会有结果
In about one hour, we get results,
确认是否有检出沙门氏菌
whether it has salmonella or not.
我们拍摄本片的第一天
On our first day of production,
就去了西雅图一家食安实验室