徒手攀岩

I mean I felt, like, pretty strong just pinching that shit
-然后保持不动把脚放上去 -就像我说的
– and just being that, put the foot. – Well, as I said,
当你把脚踩在那时 我在想
when you actually put your foot out there, I was like,
好吧 看起来还能行
“Well, that doesn’t look that bad.”
是的 这并不疯狂 我们拭目以待
Yeah, it’s not like crazy, but we’ll see.
你今早吃了布洛芬片吗
Did you take Ibuprofen this morning?
是的 我现在也要吃
Uh-hmm, I mean, I’m going to right now also.
-脚踝痛吗 -嗯
– For your ankle? – Uh-hmm.
当他去攀岩时我并不会特别激动
I’m not, like, super stoked when he goes soloing,
因为他已是我生命中不可或缺的一部分了
because he’s already a big part of my life.
我告诉亚历克斯我会一直爱他
I tell Alex I love him all the time,
他也靠行动证明着他会一直爱我
and he shows me that he loves me all the time.
-真的只是潜入水中 -是的
– And really just dive in. – Yeah, yeah, yeah.
但我也告诉他我想听到一些甜言蜜语
But I also tell him that I also need words of affection.
我们都正在努力
We work on that.
在如何表达情感方面
In terms of learning how to communicate emotion,
亚历克斯还有很多需要学习
Alex has a long way to go.
我说 “有时候我会告诉你我的想法”
And I said, “Sometimes I’m gonna tell you how I feel,
我只需要你说
and I just need you to say
“我能理解你的感受”
it totally makes sense that you feel that way.”
他会说 “我能理解你为什么这么想”
He was like, “Yeah, I can understand why you feel that way.”
我就会说 “我不觉得你能理解”
I was like, “I don’t really think that you do,
“但你能尝试我很高兴”
but I’m glad that you’re trying.”
亚历克斯 我们合作得很不错
Alex, we have excellent team skills.
我想 只能说我们合作得还不算太差
Well, I thought, I feel like we’re not quite killin’ it,
但我想 我们合作得还行
but we’re, I think we’re doin’ well.
是吗 我觉得我们就是合作得很棒
Really? I think we’re doing great.
看到亚历克斯和萨尼如此有默契 我很高兴
I’m very happy for Alex and Sanni that it works so well.
他们如此亲密 我也被深深地打动了
And I’m, I think I’m just impressed by their relationship,
但要进行高难度的徒手攀岩
but to free solo at that level,
你必须要将内心披上铠甲
you really have to have the mental armor.
而有了浪漫的爱情
Having that romantic relationship around
会使内心变得脆弱
is detrimental to that armor.
你必须保持专注
You have to focus
而一份如胶似漆的爱情却会卸下内心的铠甲
and inherently a close romantic relationship removes that armor.
鱼和熊掌不可兼得
You kinda can’t have both at the same time.
毛石 约塞美蒂瀑布
总有些东西会成为你信心的源泉
There’s always something that has to give you the confidence
给你出去徒手攀岩的动力
to go out and free solo a route.
有时候 这种信心只是来源于
So sometimes, that confidence just comes from
觉得自己非常的建康
feeling super, super fit.
有时候 这种信心
Sometimes, that confidence
来源于充分的准备和练习
comes through preparation and rehearsal.
但总会有事情让你觉得准备好了
But I mean there’s always something that makes you feel ready.
通过徒手攀爬几段峭壁
There’s something to be said for, like,
来到达合适的落脚点
soloing a bunch of pitches to, like,
类似这种体验还是非常不错的
get into that right space.
我有点紧张
It’s a little stressful.
-只是这太难以置信了 -是啊
– It’s just, it’s unreal. – Yeah.
尽管我相信亚历克斯
And as much as I trust Alex
我也知道他得心应手
and I know that he’s really methodical, uh,
但如果你挑战极限 最终会止于极限
if you’re pushing the edge, eventually you find the edge.
但是有些事情
But then there’s just some things that you’re, like,
你就只能强迫自己去努力挑战
well, you just have to push that far
酋长岩就是那么吸引人
And El Cap is that cool.
每件事情
There’s incremental advances
都在逐渐被改进
that happen in all kinds of things,
但是每隔一段时间就会有巨大的飞跃
but every once in a while there’s just this iconic leap,
徒手爬酋长岩
soloing El Cap,
他如果能做到 那就是巨大的飞跃
if he pulls this off, is this quantum leap.
很难想象有人能攀在上面
It is hard to imagine somebody up there by themselves,
彼得·克里夫特
专业登山者 徒手攀岩者
不拉绳索
without a rope,
就在这个四周都是峭壁的地方
where it’s pretty much all the other big cliffs around here.
我明白它的难度
I can kinda get it.
你徒手爬那两条路线多少次了
How many times have you soloed both those routes now?
阿斯特罗曼爬了有三四次吧
Well, Astroman, three or four times,
罗斯特鲁姆差不多也有五六十次了
but the Rostrum, I mean, literally, like, fifty, sixty.
等下 你都徒手爬罗斯特鲁姆五六十次了吗
Wait, you’ve soloed the Rostrum 50 or 60 times?
就像是个循环一样
It was like part of the circuit and I would,
我每去一次都爬至少两趟
I would go there and I would do it at least twice.
就跟着迷了似的
Like I was just glommed on.
不是说我害怕 只是有点
Not like I had a fear, but just kind of like this is how.
对 因为你已经绷起来了
Yeah, because you’re so tight.
你知道 我特别喜欢徒手攀岩的这种感觉
You know, I love that about soloing.
我的脚上功夫变得特别好
My footwork gets really good.
对 没错 是这样 对
Yeah, really, yeah totally, yeah.
但并不是别人也这样 只有我自己是这样
But it’s not for anybody else, this is just for me.
对 对 只是因为你觉得你是
Yeah, yeah, just because you feel like you’re.
徒手爬了阿斯特罗曼之后 人们会这样
And after Astroman, people were like,
我们想拍你 拍你攀岩
“we wanna film you, film you up there,”
那我就是 没兴趣 一点兴趣都没有
and I’m like, “Not interested, not even slightly.”
对我来说 要为正确的目的而攀岩
For me, it was so incredibly important
这是最为重要的
to be doing it for the right reasons.
我是说 我觉得我做的一切都是为了正确的目的
I mean, I think I’m still doing everything for the right reasons,
我现在还是特别激动
and I’m still totally stoked,
但是我觉得旁观者
but I feel like from the outside observer,
他们会这样说 他搞了个电影制♥作♥团队
you know, they’d be like, “Oh, he’s got a movie crew,”
很明显这不是正确的目的 你懂我意思
like clearly that’s the wrong reasons, you know.
带着一支电影团队 最糟糕的是
The worst thing about having a film crew is
它可能会改变你的思维方式
if it changes your mindset.
我觉得亚历克斯已经准备好了
I think Alex is almost ready to do it.
他还想再做几组热身
He just wants to take a few more practice laps.
我们也在研究每个机位
And we’re just trying to figure out all of our camera positions.
徒手攀岩的话 头顶区域很容易出问题
I mean the soloing headspace is so fragile.
我们想拍摄好
We wanna film it well,
但是我们不能妨碍到他 还需要确保
but it’s about not getting in his way and making sure
他能获得自己想要的体验
he has the experience he wants.
最糟糕的情况可能就是 我们团队中的人
The worst possible scenario is that one of us would do something
会不小心害死他
that would kill him.
会是无人机吗
Is it gonna be the drone?
切恩·兰伯
专业登山者 摄影师
会是绳索吗
Is it gonna be one of the ropes?
还是有人不小心碰下去一块石头
Is it gonna be us accidently knocking off a rock?
想到会摔下去
The idea of falling off is, you know,
当然我在努力避免
obviously I’m trying to avoid that,
其实我自己一个人的话还好
but it’s like kind of okay if it’s just by myself.
但是我不想在我朋友面前摔下去
But, like, I wouldn’t wanna fall off right in front of my friends,
因为那样
’cause that’s like,
有点没面子
that’s kind of messed up.
说真的 我们在哪拍你会比较自在
Where are you comfortable with us being essentially?
你们有比如说
Well, do you have like.
横渡段有相机吗
The traverse into it?
那么就一个相机在上面
And then a, just a camera above,
架在抱石绳段上 怎么样
sitting above the Boulder Pitch, essentially.
-会有干扰 -对 会有干扰
– It’s distracting. – Yeah, it’s distracting.
不仅仅是干扰 还有就是
Well, it’s not just distracting, but it’s also like, you know,
没人想要看着那些 我不知道怎么说
nobody wants to see that, I don’t know.
就像 我不知道 还是不要了吧
Like, yeah, I don’t know, yeah, it’s better not to.
有些东西就是
Some things you’re like, meh.
那我应该回到山谷然后试着
So should I rally into the valley and try to like
-完善一下计划吗 -对
– round out plans? – yeah.
月亮四点五十落下
Um, the moon set at 4:50 behind the ridge.
太阳七点三十升到尖顶
The spire was touched by the sun at 7:30
大概八点零五太阳会照射到攀爬难点
and by 8:05, the sun was to the crux probably.
-八点零五 -好的
– 8:05? – Okay.
你不想你爬到攀爬难点时阳光正盛
You don’t want it to be sunny when you get to the crux,
需要三到四个小时才能到抱石绳段
and it takes three or four hours to get up to the Boulder Problem,
而且这是在秋天 所以为了回避太阳
and it’s fall so in order to beat the sun,
你天不亮就得出发
you basically have to start in the dark.
我还是觉得四点开始比较合适
I kinda think just leave the ground at 4:00 again, basically.