我们都为比尔着盛装

Yes, like that. Yeah. That’s nice.
现在把这张派对照片 放在这儿
Now let’s put this one, a single picture party, right in here.
把这张放在中间 这张派对照片放在它上面
Put this one down at the bottom, this party, and put this one above it.
我们在看看…
We’ll see. We’ll just…
就把它摆在那儿 认真点儿
Just put it on. Stop your antics.
这张放到这里
Put it up there.
你这孩子
Damn you kids!
我喜欢这张…科学家
I love this one. Scientists.
他一定很会开玩笑
He must be quite a jokester.
他得过几次诺贝尔奖
He’s a Nobel laureate and so forth,
他在调戏其他的科学家
and he’s teasing the other scientist.
看这漂亮的姑娘 但是我们没有版面放她了
Look at this beautiful child, but we have no room for her.
我觉得我们这儿应该放个年轻人
I think we need someone new, young.
我不知道她是谁 但我很喜欢她的样子
I didn’t know who she was. Just, I liked the way she looked.
这条裙子真是太棒了
The dress is terrific.
你从没看过这衣服这么穿
Asymmetric on the bias. You never see that.
她不是什么模特
And it’s not a model.
只是个很会打扮自己的姑娘
That’s a private person that brought their own clothes.
这是我见过的贝斯夫人最好看的照片了
I have the most beautiful picture of Mrs. Bass.
她看起来像
She looks like a
约翰·辛格尓·萨金特的肖像
John Singer Sargent portrait.
像什么
A what? Absolutely ravishing.
只是…她穿着这个V领的衣服显得胸很小
Except, she’s got a modesty bib filling in the V-neckline.
怎么会这样
What a crime. That should have been…
那个设计师太保守了
I’m sure the dressmaker got timid.
应该把领子放开
You know, to fill it.
真是的 他应该把这个领子放开
Isn’t that a shame? It should have been left open.
-看她可真是优雅 -是的
-Look how elegant she is. -Oh, yeah.
这女人真是了不起
Oh. That woman is amazing.
-我们上周没有登她么 -没 没有
-Uh, wasn’t she in last week? -No. No.
你不要把她的胳膊裁掉 你疯了么
Oh, no, you don’t cut her arms. Are you crazed?
-对不起 -留着她的手臂
-Well, excuse me. -Keep her hands in.
我的天约翰 你的灵感都哪儿去了
My God, John. Where’s your sensitivity?
我觉得她大概是最优雅的女人了…
I mean, she’s probably the most elegant woman,
纽约最优雅的女人之一
or one of the most elegant women, in New York.
你又不懂…我♥干♥嘛和你说这些
Oh, you wouldn’t know. What am I talking to you about that stuff?
你这个粗人 我竟然在和你讨论这些裙子
You’re a lumberjack, and here I’m talking dresses to you.
你在跟我说话么 我装没听见
Are you talking to me? I was completely ignoring you all that time.
别录了
Oh! Now stop it.
把这愚蠢的摄像机关了
Turn that damn thing off.
比尔 我们会一直追着你的
Bill, we’re gonna hound you. We’re gonna hound you.
你们已经这样做了 现在关上机器吧
You’ve already done that. Now stop it.
你们想难甩掉的尾巴
These guys are tough as nails. They think they’re taking over.
你们不能都拍
They’re not taking over. We’re not.
我有事要说
I got news for them. Yeah.
这些蠢货觉得他们可以跟着我拍到巴黎
These jerks think they’re going to follow me to Paris.
怎么可能
Who are they kidding?
-是的 我们会拍 -不 你们不会
-We are. -No, you’re not.
我直到1951年才第一次去巴黎
I didn’t get to Paris till 1951.
我当时驻军在巴黎东南部
I was stationed in the southwest of France.
所以搭上机会去了巴黎
I’d take the train up to Paris.
当然 那时的巴黎和现在大大不同
Of course, it was very different from today.
那里只有女装店
They were only couture houses.
那些衣服给女性带来巨大的安全感
They were clothes that gave women enormous security…
那种优雅的裁剪和精致的品位
through the elegance of cut and taste and refinement.
那里没有那么多浮华的东西
There was nothing frivolous about them.
我大概四十年代♥开♥始拍照
You see, when I began in the ’40s,
那时时装秀还没有摄影师
there were no photographers at fashion shows.
这些时装店要自己拍照
What the fashion houses had to do was take their own photographs…
然后让报社的编辑从中去选择
and bring them to the editors to select something.
那种成体系的模式
Then the ready-to-wear came into existence in the…
大概在六十年代末 其实年代初才刚刚出现
in the end of the ’60s, beginning of the ’70s, very slowly.
在圣罗兰的第一个时装发布会
At Saint Laurent’s first ready-to-wear show,
大概是我还是一个Vogue的摄影师去了
I think there were maybe myself, and maybe a Vogue photographer.
当时人们对于时装秀并没有 现在这种狂热的追逐
I mean, it didn’t have this fanatic following that it has now…
这些服装制♥造♥商和人们 拼了命想要挤进去
of all these manufacturers and people that just would kill to get in…
从时装秀中偷一些创意用到他们自己衣服上
because they need to steal ideas for their own work.
巴黎大概是这些创意的实验室
So they let Paris be the laboratory of ideas.
新闻发布会的入口在那边 所以你必须去问他们
The press entrance is that way, so you have to ask them, unfortunately.
尼基 我们该进去了…
Nikki, should we go…
只能进去一个人
Just one person, huh?
尼基 那等会儿见
Nikki, um, I’ll see you later.
我看这些时装秀的时候
Looking at these collections,
会去想一个女人能穿什么样的衣服 会穿什么样的衣服
I look for what I think a woman could wear, would wear,
对于大部分人来说这衣服是不是合身
and whether it would fit a human body,
这衣服不能只设计给模特穿
other than the model.
我很重视这点
I’m very attuned to that.
如果这衣服不能给大部分人穿 那我就没什么兴趣
If it isn’t something a woman could wear, I have no interest in it.
我观察过比尔在时装秀拍照的样子
I’ve watched Bill photograph from the front row,
你可以看到他什么时候举起相机 什么时候放下
and you can see when the camera goes up or the camera stays down.
他很有自己的观点
And he’s very opinionated.
他不会为每一件作品喝彩
He does not applaud everyone.
他能看出来什么是新鲜的创意
He knows what’s innovative…
什么是无趣的或是抄袭的
and what’s borrowed or copied.
他能一眼看出来…在一次时装展上
He knows if he sees someone, you know , putting something on a runway…
某一件衣服是不是抄袭了三十年前的作品
if it was done, like, 30 years before.
如果他发现了
And so he would pull it up.
他会去找出那张三十年前的照片来做对比
Thirty years before, and he’d show the picture and…
这样…弄得很多设计师很是尴尬
I mean, he got… Designers would be devastated.
他有一次发现艾萨克·麦兹拉西
He once did that with Isaac Mizrahi.
新设计的衣服杰弗里·比尼
He pulled up a Geoffrey Beene…
和杰弗里·比尼五年前的作品很像
from like five years before or something,
艾萨克对此很生气 这件事也弄的
and Isaac was so mad,
杰弗里·比尼对艾萨克非常不满
and even Geoffrey Beene, I think, got mad at Isaac.
比尔这样似乎总能挑起一些麻烦
You know, it was like he would definitely start trouble.
他这样做没有什么目的
Not on purpose, but he would do…
但如果他看到抄袭的作品
He would definitely, like,
他一定会指出来
point out, like, if he saw something, he’d call it.
大部分摄影师都
The photographers at the shows,
站在T台的正对面
they’re all in the back,
这样他们可以毫无干扰的拍到 正面的清晰大图
so they get a clear photograph with nothing disturbing.
干净的背景
They get a plain wall. It’s all fine.
但他们都在很直观的表现这些服装
But they’re getting
展现正面最完美的样子
everything straight on.
但我觉得时尚不是这样的
Well, fashion’s not that way.
你要去展现它的每一面 这一角是什么样
You have to know in an instant,
那个细节是什么样
“Oh, the angle is this, and the detail is that. ”
不仅仅是那样的直拍
And it’s not straight on.
我喜欢站在侧面拍 可以拍到一件衣服的正面 背面
I just like it on the side, so I can get a front, a back, a profile…
幸运的话还能拍到它的简介
or hopefully.
很多时候我都都会错过一些镜头 但我努力地去多拍
Most of the time I miss it, but I try.
很多人可能会把时尚看作是…
The wider world that perceives fashion as a…
一些很浮华的东西
sometimes a frivolity that should be done away with…
在动荡的社会大局中 非常的微不足道
in the face of social upheavals and problems that are enormous…
在我看来 时尚是…
The point is, in fact, that fashion…
在我看来…
You know, in point of fact,
它像是远离现实生活的避难所
it’s the armor to survive the reality of everyday life.
我无法想象我生活中没有它的存在
I don’t think you could do away with it.
如果我的生活中没有时尚
It would be like doing
就好像人类文明没有开启一样
away with civilization.
我就是这么认为的
You know, l… That’s what I think.
可能很多人会觉得”他是个狂热的疯子”
I mean, a lot of people think “He’s a crazy fanatic,” you know.
但不管怎样 时尚对于我就是这样的重要
At any rate, that’s what I think about it.
在这儿拍照和在纽约拍照有什么不同
How is it different shooting here than in New York?
这儿的时装周很特别
Fashion week here is exceptional.
哪里特别
Why?
它会给你一种新的视角
It educates the eye.
巴黎么
Paris?
是的 是这样…
That’s right. That’s really…
我是来看时装周的 但这里给我的影响…
I come for the fashion, but that’s what happens.
就像是每半年重新学习一次