黎明墙（2017）

It’s just grabbing razor blades.
就仿佛是去抓住剃刀刀片
I tape up any wounds with Neosporin for healing.
我用Neosporin消炎膏包扎伤口
Then I wake up probably twice in the night and reapply.
夜里可能需要醒两次重新上药
Getting pretty obsessed with my lips.
嘴唇也超级难受
[Long] Then you’ve got to hope you can get a little sleep.
你才希望能睡个好觉时
The next day is going to be more of the same, but harder.
其实第二天将会差不多，还愈发艰难
And it’s going to go on day after day,
天天如此
two weeks, three weeks. Nobody knows.
两周，三周，没人知道（多久可以完成）
[Tommy] After Kyrgyzstan,
吉尔吉斯斯坦事件以后
we’re trying to absorb what had happened.
我们一直想忍♥受住发生的经过
Beth is really traumatized.
Beth 饱受心灵创伤
[Beth]I started to have nightmares and couldn’t sleep.
开始连着做噩梦，无法入眠
I did not want to be separated from Tommy at that point.
我不希望在那个时刻离开Tommy
[Tommy] Beth and I are bonded at the hip. I’m her rock.
Beth和我在同一险境，我就是她的岩石
We go to church a few times.
我们一起上教堂好几次
We hadn’t been to church in ten years.
过去十年间，我们都没有去过教堂
We’re just searching. We’re like, what does this mean?
我们在探究，这到底是为什么
We go to a therapist.
后来去看了一位心理治疗专家
It’s like nobody knows how to deal with this situation.
貌似没有人知道怎样才能更好面对这种状态
I think my way of dealing with it was
我想我自己的面对方式是
you just get back on that horse and go climb again.
再次回到攀岩
This has always been my safe place,
它一直是我的安全伞
my way to deal with life.
是我面对生活的路途
I didn’t know what to think about Kyrgyzstan.
我不知道怎样去思考吉尔吉斯斯坦事件
Part of me was feeling kind of empowered.
部分的自我，感受到某种神授
I was like, when the shit really hit the fan,
就像是，如果真的麻烦上头时
I was able to do what needed to be done
也不得不去做应当做的事
to get us out of there.
把自己救出困境
[Beth] Tommy jumped right back into climbing,
Tommy 很快就回到攀岩
and slowly we got back into our groove.
慢慢地，我们回到了常规
[Tommy] We’re both professional rock climbers,
我们俩都是职业攀岩者
doing these really cool climbs all over the place.
在许多地方完成了这些酷酷的攀爬
[Beth] He started setting these lofty goals.
他开始设立宏大的理想
[Tommy] Trying to climb harder and harder routes.
试图攀爬那些难而又难的路径
And then, about a year after Kyrgyzstan,
从吉尔吉斯斯坦回来的一年后
we were remodeling this tiny little cabin.
我们重建了这个林中小木屋
And Tommy was using his parent’s old table saw.
Tommy 还用到了他父母的老桌锯
[Dad] Tommy did something that you should never do,
Tommy做的这件事，你永远都不该去做
which is he tried to pull a small piece of wood
他把一小块木头放进锯子里
through the table saw.
据来据去
If the blade catches on the wood,
当锯子刀片碰到木头时
it sucks your hand right back into the blade.
直接就把手指卷进去了
I heard Tommy scream,
我听到Tommy的惨叫
“I fucking cut off my finger, I cut off my finger.”
我切到手指了，我切断手指了
Completely cut his finger off instantly.
瞬间就割断了手指
It was over in the bushes.
手指飞到了草丛
Beth finds the finger laying in this pile of sawdust.
Beth 在锯木屑中找到断指
We throw it on ice, drive to the hospital.
我们用冰裹住，开车去医院
My dad comes in, and he’s like,“You have to fix his finger.”
我老爹进来时，还在念叨，你要把手指带上
[Beth]And so for two weeks, they tried to reattach it.
随后的两周，他们都在设法断指再接
[Tommy]
Three different surgeries.
三位外科大夫
But it became apparent that the finger wasn’t going to survive.
可是，很明显，手指没有能存活下来
This one doctor who was a climber
其中一个大夫自己就是攀岩者
came in and told Tommy that he was going to have to
走进了告诉Tommy说，他需要
come up with a new career now.
从此开始找新的工作
There’s no way he was going to make it as a climber any longer.
他再也不可能回到攀岩这件事
Oh, that was…天呐 … 这也
either the wrong thing or the right thing to say,
也不知该说是对还是错
because it sure fired him up.
因为这一下子就激怒了Tommy
I was like. ‘Tuck that guy!
我想，见鬼去吧，他
“He doesn’t know what I’m capable of.”
他根本不知道我擅长什么
[Beth] I remember the first time he tried to climb.
我还记得他后来的第一次攀爬
Good, Tommy.
挺棒，Tommy
He was like, “Whoa!”
他，呃， 就像，天呐
You know, it’s going to be hard.
你明白，真的很难
Good job, sweetie.
宝贝，干的好
[Long] When I heard he cut his finger off, I go,
我听到他割断手指后，我就过去了
“Well, so much for Tommy CaIdwell.”
哎，够他受的了。
The grip in climbing is,
攀岩的握力
you wrap your thumb over your finger like that
是需要你用拇指搭在其它手指上，像这样
and pull down on the little edges,
然后去抓住小小的（石头）边缘
and if there’s no finger there, the physics are all wrong.
但如果没有这个指头，物理上的原则都不一样了
I don’t know about that.
我真不知道这个
[Tommy] Everybody around me, except for Beth and my parents,
周围所有的人，除了Beth和我父母
looked at me and they’re like,“He’s done. That’s so sad.”
他们看着我，就像说，他完了，真可悲
I knew it wasn’t going to be easy.
我明白这不容易
But ever since Kyrgyzstan,
但自从吉尔吉斯斯坦事件后
I just have this fire in me
我心里就有一团火
that is different than anything I’ve had before.
和我以前感受的都全然不同
[Dad] He had all these jars of rice and beans and gravel.
他有一堆盛满米粒，豆子或沙砾的瓶子
He’s supposed to jam that nub of a finger in there.
他要把断指的根部扎进瓶子
[Tommy] I just abused the thing
我就是滥用这些东西
to retrain the nerves, to toughen them up.
要重新训练神经，和强壮神经
Those six days of captivity in Kyrgyzstan
在吉尔吉斯斯坦的六天
were so profoundly painful.
痛苦如此深重
At first, I felt overwhelmed
开始时，我感觉到
with fear and fatigue and hunger.
被恐惧、疲劳和饥饿击倒
But at some point, I felt something come over me,
可是，在某一点是，却感觉身体里有某种东西
this reserve of energy,
能量的保存
this confidence.
这一种自信
I knew I was cold, I knew I was hungry,
我明白我很冷，很饿
but those things didn’t matter anymore.
但它们再也不起作用了
I think we all have this idea of where our limits lie.
我认为我们都知道自己的极限在哪里
If you’re hurting really bad,
如果你伤的特别狠
you get to a point where you’re like, “I can’t endure any more.”
你就达到一个点，说，无法忍♥受更多了。
And it takes something to force you past that.
于是它会推动你穿过去
In Kyrgyzstan, I realized that my preconceived limits
在吉尔吉斯斯坦，我意识到自己曾经预想的极限
were totally off base,
完全不靠谱
that we’re capable of so much more
其实我们可以做到更多
than we really could ever imagine.
比自己想象的多得多
[Beth] There was this really hard climb nobody had done
有些很难的、没有人做到的攀岩
that he tried the year before he cut off his finger,
他手指断以前，很早就尝试过
and he couldn’t do it.
没有成功
A year later, he came back without the finger
一年后，没了手指他再次回来
and he did it.
却成功了
[KeIIy] He cuts off his finger.
他切断了手指
“Oh, no big deal. I’ll just get better after that.”
没啥大事，我会更好的
I have no idea how that’s possible.
真不知道这是怎么做到的
[Dad] That’s when Tommy took his game
这个，是Tommy想要完成他
to the biggest stage on Earth, which is El Cap.
在地球最大舞台上的运动游戏，去攀登El Capitan
[Long]At that time,
那时
there were only a few free climbs that went up El Cap.
登上El Capitan 的徒手抱石攀岩只有几条线路
[John] Some of the hardest big wall climbs ever done.
这些是人们完成过的最难的大岩体攀登
Just to claim one of these routes
即使通过其中一条线路登顶
would have been a monumental achievement
对于世界上最好的攀岩者来说
for the best climbers in the world.
都可以说的不朽功绩
And then Tommy walks into the Valley,
Tommy 于是来到这山谷
missing a finger,
少一根手指
and just started knocking them down, one after the other.
开始要一个一个击败它们
[Long] Over the next five years, he went on a rampage.
此后的五年，他斗志昂扬
[Tommy] I did basically all the existing routes on El Cap.
我完成了现有的全部登顶线路
-Long]Salathe Wall 线路.
-[BethI The Zodiac 线路.
[Dad] El Corazon 线路.
-[Beth] Golden Gate 线路.
-[Dad] The Nose 线路.
[John] Then he starts speed climbing these routes,
然后他开始高速攀登这些线路
linking one into the other.
连接一些线路
[Jason] Two El Cap routes in a day.
有时，一天之间，两次攀爬线路
6,000 feet of climbing.
6000英尺的攀爬
[Long] That was unheard of.
从未有人做到过
-[Beth] You did it! 成功
-[Tommy] Oh, my goodness.天呐
And then I started looking for new routes.