我早听说过Kevin
He was this amazingly strong bouldering kid.
他是个特别出色的抱石攀岩小孩
And I thought to myself,“What the heck?
我对自己说,担心啥呢?
“Maybe he could be an asset.”
说不定他正好就是那个真正搭档
Plus, he was the only one interested.
此外,他也是唯一有兴趣的那个
Everybody else thought I was crazy.
其他人都觉得我不可理喻
[Kevin] Show up.
来吧
I remember standing there with Tommy,
我还记得很清楚
who’s a legend figure in my life.
当时和Tommy站一起,他可是我的传奇英雄呢
I feel like such a fucking dork.
我觉得自己特傻
Who am I? I’ve never climbed El Cap.
我是谁呀?从未攀登过El Cap
What a noob.
纯粹一菜鸟
Fiddling around on boulders,
就是在抱石这事上扯蛋
that’s a far cry from being on El Capitan.
和登上El Cap 全不是一回事
[Tommy] First thing I had to do was test him.
我要做的第一件事就是测试
I gave him like an 80 pound haul bag.
我给了他一个80磅的拖袋
[Kevin] A soul crushing load.
真是沉死人的东西
[Tommy] We hiked to the top of El Cap.
我们徒步到达El Cap峰顶
[Kevin]
We spent the night on top.
就在那里露天度过一个晚上
Woke up early the next day…
第二天醒来时
[Tommy] It’s 3:15 in the morning.
是凌晨3:15
Cooking up a little breakfast.
煮了一点早饭
You never get up at 3:00 in the morning to go bouldering.
你永远也不会凌晨3点去抱石攀岩的
[Kevin]…and start rappelling down the face.
然后开始沿绳索下到岩石表层
You start walking backwards.
开始回走
It’s like stepping off the edge of the Earth.
这几乎像从地球的边缘跨出去
You instantly have 3,000 feet of exposure under your butt.
屁♥股♥底下,是3000英尺高的野外
[Howling, laughing]
Oh, my God! 天呐
[Tommy] How’s it going up there, Key?
Key,感觉如何?
-[Kevin]Good, I got the bag. 不错,我还有一个包
-[Tommy]And my shoes? 我鞋子在吗?
-[Kevin]And your shoes. 是,还有你鞋子
-[Tommy]Cool, thank you. 酷,谢啦
It’s scary to be a total beginner again.
再次成为新手,这一点挺吓人的
I don’t know any of this stuff.
我对此(这种攀岩)一无所知
Trying to figure out how to jumar a fixed line.
要弄明白怎样用固定绳索上升器
[Groans]
How to set up a portaledge.
如何搭建悬空帐篷
[Clanging]
Sorry, Kevin.抱歉,Kevin
[Kevin] I’ll just hold this quarter in. It’s cool.
我正抓着咱的营帐进来了,超酷
How to take a dump on the side of the Wall.
怎样在岩壁上扔垃圾
-[Tommy] They get every moment. 他们一直在拍摄你呢
-[Josh] Close up. 别说了
[Kevin]At this point, I have no idea what I’m getting into,
直到那会儿,我还是对参与的这件事比较无知
no idea that it’s about to consume six years of my life.
不知道会消耗我六年的时间
[Kelly] When Kevin joined on with Tommy,
当Kevin加入到Tommy一起
it was the first time since getting divorced
这是Tommy离婚后的第一次
that Tommy had a partner.
有了搭档
There’s two bolts and then an old bolt.
有两个螺栓,还有一个旧螺栓
[Kevin]I didn’t know what we were up against,
我并不知道我们面临的是什么
but I was going on faith that this is Tommy’s world.
但我相信这是Tommy的世界
He’s got the clear vision of what this could be.
他对所作所为一清二楚
And I’m just going to trust that.
我只需要信任它就好
[Tommy] The basic strategy early on
最开始的计划
was not to climb the route from the bottom.
并不是从岩底攀登
It was to identify the hardest sections
无疑这是最难的部分
and focus on those first.
把注意力集中在这里
[Kevin]There were all these question marks.
所有的问号♥都在这儿
Come on, Tommy. 加油,Tommy
[Tommy] OK, take it there. 好吧,拿上去
Oh, I got the pinch with my right hand instead of my left.
我用右手标记了,没有用左手
[Kevin] Working it out. 完成它
Constantly working it out.不断完成
Early on, most of it was figuring out what didn’t work.
起先,大部分计划都是在琢磨难以完成的部分
Right in the middle of the Wall,
在岩壁的中部
we were gonna have to traverse it sideways.
我们必须窄道横穿
Come on.加油
Come on.加油
I don’t see any holds,
我简直什么抓缝也看不到
but I try to harness some of Tommy’s optimism.
不过我控制自己学习Tommy的乐观
[Tommy] After the traverse,
在横穿以后
there’s this 8 and 112 foot blank section.
紧接著就是8到112英寸的空白地带
Completely smooth.
完全是光溜溜的岩壁
Nothing that you could even get your fingernails behind.
没有任何可以手指触碰的地方
The only way was to just leap.
唯一的办法就是跳跃
This crazy dynamic move.
真是疯狂的动作
The Dyno.在Dyno段
I didn’t really believe it would be possible
我真不敢相信这怎么可能呢
until I saw Kevin try it.
直到看见Kevin在尝试
Yeah, man. It was close.
兄弟,接近了
He showed me that it was.
他展示给我
[Kevin] Come on. All you got.
加油,快了
Above the Dyno, you have pitch after pitch
Dyno段之上,每一个绳距
of have super smooth granite,
都是光滑无比的花岗岩
extremely polished.
呈极端抛光状
Because of Tommy’s missing index finger,
因为Tommy没有了食指
he’s using his thumbs in crazy ways.
他很不可思议地用拇指替代
Shit.狗屎
Argh! 啊
Holy crap, that is hard.
艾玛,真是太难了
13B.
13C. 14A.
[Long] To understand the difficulty of this route,
想要理解这段路径的困难度
you have to understand climbing grades.
你不得不要先理解攀岩等级
Climbers use a numerical system
攀岩者是使用一套数值系统
to rate the difficulty of each pitch.
来评估每一个绳距的难度系数
The higher the number, the harder the pitch.
系数越高,绳距难度越大
Once you get into 513 and 514 level,
一旦到达513和514的难度系数
that’s virtuoso territory.
那是大♥师♥级的恐怖系数了
The Dawn Wall has more hard pitches
黎明墙的绳距难度系数
than every other route on El Cap combined.
比所有El Cap岩墙的难度系数都要更高
I always thought it was futile
我总是认为
in terms of doing the whole thing.
要完成整个攀登几乎是徒劳
This is a pipe dream, man. Come on.
哥们,这是梦想啊,加油
[Kevin] The next few years were a grind.
此后的几年真是很磨人
Coming back every spring and every fall for months at a time.
每个春秋时季,都会回来呆上几个月
-[Tommy] Come on. 加油
-[Thunderclap]
[Kevin] Living on the Wall takes a huge toll.
住了岩壁上是要付出代价的
[Tommy] This is what El Cap does to your feet.
这是 El Cap 对你脚丫子的所作所为
[Kevin] We’d stay up there a few days…
我们要呆好几天…….
[Brett] Oh, my God. That’s a lot of air time.
天呐,真是飞天了
[Kevin]…go down, rest,
下来,休息
try again.
再尝试
There were always new problems to face.
不断有新问题出现
[Tommy] Get out of here!
快撤出来
Come on, Kevin. Do it, man.
加油,Kevin,你行的,兄弟
-Really close. 几乎抓到了
-Oh, I sprained my ankle. 我伤到了脚踝
-Are you OK, man? 怎么样,兄弟
-Oh, shit. 糟透了
[Kevin]So many reasons to give up.
N多可以放弃的理由
[Brett] Oh, shit. 啊,糟了
[Tommy] Man, I think I have broke or dislocated ribs.
兄弟,我觉得我胸骨折断了,要不就是错位了。
We’re heading to the clinic.
我们跑医疗室
Maybe they’ll just pop it back in.
也许他们可以设法弄好
[Kevin]They will, and we’ll go back up later tonight.
他们会,哎,我们会晚上再过来
But Tommy was committed.
但是,Tommy决意已定
[Tommy] Come on, Kevin! Come on!
加油,Kevin,加油
[Kevin]There were times I thought he was totally crazy.
我不由自主有时想,他真是疯了
Come on! 加油
Yee-hoo! 呼呼
Whoo! Ow-ow! 哇塞
[Kevin]When we weren’t together on the Wall,
当我们不在岩墙时
we would go home to our own worlds,
我们就回到自己的世界
check in on loved ones.
和亲爱的家人照个面
It’s gross. I can see the oil on your hair.
油腻腻的,我都看见你头发上的油了
OK, I’m just totally being a mom.
好吧,我就是个老妈的命
[kevin]
Try to get some good rest
要好好休息哦
and find motivation for the next round of attempts.
充电了才好继续尝试
[Tommy] When I wasn’t on the Dawn Wall,
我不在黎明墙时
I was living by myself in Colorado,
我就独自住在科罗拉多州
training and obsessing.
一边训练,一边沉迷
I was really lonely, honestly.

你的评论可以尖锐,也可以湿疣!